Abacoa & Alton Neighbors - June 2021

If the US had an official food, what would it be? Arguments could be made for both the hamburger and apple pie. If you ask me, though, no single food (or preparation method) is more American than barbecue! Usually done outside over wood or charcoal, barbecue is (in its simplest form) meat that has been cooked for several hours by an indirect flame at a low temperature. Before digging into the history, we should make the distinction between grilling and barbecuing. Because they both involve food and flame, you’ll often hear these two terms used interchangeably. Rest assured, they are very different, and aficionados of both will quickly tell you as much. It’s widely accepted that grilling food means there is no cover and heat is applied to one side of the food at a time. Barbecuing cooks food (usually meat) with the lid down, ensuring a slow, all-around heat. Without further ado, let’s take a look at the tradition of barbecue in the United States through three simple truths. IT’S OLD Roasting meat over a fire wasn’t invented in the States. It dates back to prehistory, and documented recipes for roasted meat prepared in this manner go back to the Middle Ages. To understand barbecue now, we need to look at where it all started. Although barbecue is hugely popular in the American South, the first documented appearance of barbecue in North America was not in Texas or the Carolinas, but the Caribbean! There, the Taíno people would smoke meat over an indirect flame on a frame made from green sticks. History indicates that Christopher Columbus encountered this cooking method while he was on the island that he would later dub Hispaniola (now known as the Greater Antilles). The tradition was brought to the American South by the Spanish, who called it barbacoa. The method of using a frame to dry, smoke or cook meat over an open flame was common among Native Americans along the eastern coast. Barbecuing is also well-documented as having been popular among colonists, especially in the South. IT’S REGIONAL Over time, different regions developed distinct barbecue styles with different meats, spices, sauces and basting methods, which all reflected the people, culture and traditions of each region. The main regional styles (familiar to many of us) are Carolina, Texas, Memphis and Kansas City. Traditionally, barbecue in the Carolinas is pork that has been pulled, chopped or sliced. The meat is rubbed with plenty of spices and basted with a vinegar-based liquid as it cooks. While North Carolinians top their barbecue with a thin sauce that’s heavy on the vinegar (sometimes with a bit of tomato added), South Carolina is known for its mustard barbecue sauce. No surprise here: Texans do barbecue their own way. Beef brisket, beef ribs and sausage are among the most popular meats in the Lone Star State. Even within the state, variations run the gamut: Central Texas folks swear by meat that has been rubbed with only salt and pepper before going into the pit, and South Texans have a tradition of marinating the meat in a thick sauce made with molasses before cooking. Meanwhile, in Memphis, diners can order their pork ribs and pulled pork sandwiches “wet” (sauced) or “dry” (spice rub only), and they might add the traditional sweet, tomato-based sauce at the table. Memphians also aren’t shy about adding pulled pork to dishes like spaghetti, nachos and pizza! Finally, Henry Perry is credited with establishing Kansas City’s trademark sweet and spicy barbecue flavors when he began serving it at his restaurant. Purists will claim that barbecue only uses pork, but not Perry! He served pork, beef and lamb prepared with a bold spice rub and thick, tomatoey sauce. IT’S TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY Whether it’s a neighborhood rivalry or the Memphis in May barbecue championship, barbecue is one of those food art forms that goes hand-in-hand with competition. Maybe it’s because everyone—from the century-old, family-owned joints down to the novice home cooks— seems to have their own signature style. The way we barbecue in the United States varies from person to person, and part of the fun is experiencing just how much variation there is within one genre of cooking. Because barbecue styles are often tied to the location, hometown pride is another reason for the fierce loyalty to that region’s barbecue. Barbecue is part of the fabric of the United States, and it’s historically been a social act enjoyed with family, friends and neighbors. There are variations to suit most any palate, but no matter what style or sauce you prefer, one thing is certain: barbecue is an American classic! Sources: www.history.com, w ww.smithsonianmag.com. The Tradition of Barbecue In the United States By Chelsea Scott RECIPE CORNER J u n e 2 0 2 1 | Abacoa &Alton N E I G H B O R S 29